Wednesday, January 04, 2012

Faux Boob (Breast Prothesis) [Pattern]



I have been looking to donate to the Knitted Knockers cause - only locally. I know I'm not a great knitter so a knitted pattern really wasn't going to work for me. I turned to my trusty friend crochet.

I found one pattern on the internet by the Happy Hooker (link to that pattern here) - and while it was good enough to give me an idea of what I was needing to do, the instructions did not do much for me or what I was trying to do. I knew that I would have to come up with something on my own. Inspired by that pattern, I bring you my version of the faux boob, or foobs as Teresa Fee calls them.
Please: If you choose to make this pattern and have any input, please comment below and let me know.

I do ask one thing: If you make a breast from this pattern, do not sell it. Use it for yourself, give it to a friend or family member, or give it away for free to either Knitted Knockers or a cancer center. The idea of this is to be for charity - to help a woman in need. Selling the finished item, either for a set price or for shipping, seems odd to me.

If you happened upon this pattern as a person who is in need of a faux boob, contact me via email and let me know. If I can squeeze it in, I will personally make your faux boob and send it your way (I need to know your cup size and your preferred colors). If you do not want me to make your faux boob, use the link to Knitted Knockers and ask them to help.

Because we all crochet with different tensions, you may need to adjust your hook size. If you are questioning what size boob you are making, reference this website that offers bra fitting measurements (link).

The Faux Boob
By Cris

Level: Intermediate to Experienced (but Beginners should give it a whirl too!)

Needed:
Standard Worsted Weight Yarn - Caron Simply Soft is a little too thin (something soft!)
Size H hook
Crochet row marker (or a safety pin or a small scrap of yarn)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Regular Polyfill

Abbreviations:
sc - single crochet
st - stitch
sl - slip stitch
prev - previous
rpt - repeat
btn - between
invdec - decrease
dec - decrease
yo - yarn over

NOTE: for the invdec, your hook will be working from left to right on the back rim of the boob (if you set your work down on the table, your hook will be on the edge farthest from you). To do the invdec, you will need to use the back loops only for the dec. You will put the hook through the back loop of st 1, put the hook through the back loop of st 2, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook, yo and pull through last 2 loops on hook. Be sure to keep it tight.

If your hook is closest to you when lay it on the table, then you would go through the front loops only (you should not be doing this for this particular pattern)

You can replace the invdec with a regular decrease if you prefer.


TO BEGIN
To start this pattern, put 6 sc into the magic loop. Place your marker into the first sc. Pull the magic circle closed. Do not sl to join.

Row 1
sc in each of the first 5 sc's of the magic circle stitches
sl into the last sc from the magic circle stitches (5sc, 1 sl)
Move your marker to the sl
ch 1

Your work is cupping "away" from you after this row. Force the cup to go the other way. This will form your nipple.

Turn your work

Row 2
The next stitch you work will be INTO the sl from the end of row 1
2 sc the first 5 st from row 1
1 sc in each of the next 2 st from row 1 (12 sc)
sl to join

Move marker to the last st made

Row 3 (begin to work in a spiral)

*sc in next st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 18 sc

Move marker to the last st made

Row 4
*sc in next 2 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 24 sc

Move marker to the last st made

Now is a good time to form the nipple. You can stitch some poly-fill inside the nipple or a small bead (my daughters idea) to hold the nipple out if you find that it is not holding its shape well. I prefer to use the tail from the magic circle to tighten up the nipple. I thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and feed it up to the side of the nipple. I weave the thread in and out of the 6 sc's at the base of the nipple and pull it tight. This pulls those stitches in and makes a nicer shaped nipple. I then pass the tail back through to the inside of the boob and weave in the tail a few times, closing up any gaps between stitches close to the needle. I cut the tail off, leaving about 5 inches that will remain insight the faux boob.

The nipple is also a good size that if you wished to change colors, you could do so here. If you made your nipple a darker tan or brown, you could change colors to the flesh tone you are trying to emulate.

Row 5
*sc in next 3 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 30 sc

Move marker to the last st made

Row 6
*sc in next 4 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 36 st

Move marker to the last st made

Row 7
*sc in next 5 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 42 st

Move marker to the last st made

Row 8
*sc in next 6 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 48 st


Move marker to the last st made


Row 9 (go to row 16 after this row to accommodate a size A cup breast)
*sc in next 7 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 54 st

Move marker to the last st made

Row 10
sc in all st around to marked st

Move marker to the last st made


Row 11 (go to row 16 after this row to accommodate a size B cup breast)
*sc in next 8 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 60 st

Move marker to last st made

Row 12
sc in all st around to marked st

Move marker to the last st made


Row 13 (go to row 16 after this row to accommodate a size C cup breast)
*sc in next 9 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 66 st

Move marker to last st made

Row 14
sc in all st around to marked st

Move marker to the last st made

Row 15 (go to row 16 after this row to accommodate a size D cup breast)
*sc in next 10 st
2 sc in next st*
rpt btn * to end of row for a total of 72 st

Move marker to last st made

NOTE: You can go higher in cup size by simply by adding one row of sc without an increase, and then increasing the count of sc between  the 2sc increase two more than the last cup size.

Row 16 - 18
sc around the total number of stitches from the last increase round worked to obtain the cup size you are working (to the marked st)

NOTE: Continue to the row indicated below that matches the cup size you have made. If you made larger than a D cup, then you need to do the following: each of the rows starts with sc'ing into a set number of stitches. Whatever the last number of stitches you made between increases for your cup size, subtract 1 from that. For example, if the last number you did was to sc into 19 st between increases, then you will sc 18 times and invdec. Continue this subtracting one stitch in between invdec as you work your way in closing the hole on the back of the boob. The below instructions only walk you through a size D cup and smaller.

NOTE: The next rows begin the decrease row. As long as your increases counted our correctly, if you are off a few stitches on the decreases, this is not detrimental. Start at the row that matches the cup size you increased too.


Row 19 (start here if you made a D cup and continue to the end)
*sc in next 9 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 60 st

Move the marker to last st made

Row 20 (start here if you made a C cup and continue to the end)
*sc in next 8 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 54 st

Move the marker to last st made


Row 21 (start here if you made a B cup and continue to the end)
*sc in next 7 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 48 st

Move the marker to the last st made

Row 22 (start here if you made a A cup and continue to the end)
*sc in next 6 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 42 st

Move the marker to the last st made

Row 23
sc in all st around to last marked st (42 sc)

Move the marker to the last st made

Row 24
*sc in next 5 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 36 st

Move the marker to the last st made

Row 25
*sc in next 4 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 30 st

Move the marker to the last st made

Row 26
*sc in next 3 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 24 st

Move the marker to the last st made

Row 27
*sc in next 2 st, invdec*
rpt btn * to end of row making 18 st

Move the marker to the last st made

Stuff your faux boob now with the polyfill

Row 28
Remove the marker

*sc in the next st, invdec*
rpt btn * until the opening is about 1/2" in diameter

Row 29
*sk 1 st, sl in next st*
rpt btn * until the opening is closed enough to finish off

NOTE: a larger boob will require you to go around more to close the opening.

finish off the boob by cutting a really long tail. Tie off and stitch the hole shut.

There are other ways you can finish off your boob after weaving in the tail.  You can:
1. Attach the tail through the nipple to make the backside of the boob concave, but be warned it will pull the nipple inward a little,
2. Stitch around the outside edge of the top of the breast to "flatten" the back side and force the boob to sit with the domed side in front and a flatter side on the back. By stitching the top you can force the top side to be thinner than the bottom, giving the breast a more teardrop shape when you look at it from the side.

I personally prefer finishing method number 2  but only half way around (the top side) as I can push the fabric anyway I want and a quick stitch around the edge makes the top side more flat and the bottom more rounded, like a real breast.

10 comments:

Shell said...

What a great idea! Lighter weight than permanent fake ones, and you can change your size depending on your outfit!

Carol said...

Some years ago, I knitted loads of breasts for my daughter who is a midwife. She was running classes showing ladies how to check themselves for breast lumps. I used any odd colours which took the embarrassment out of it. It went down very well. Another potential use for them perhaps?
Carol

Cris said...

VERY good idea! Thank you for sharing :)

Kitten_one_42 said...

God Bless you.  I am a breast cancer survivor.  I would have loved to have one of these right after I had my mastectomy.  Since then I have had reconstruction surgery.  I will be trying your pattern for the cancer patients in this area.  Again God Bless you.

Linda said...

I mentioned to a friend of mine that I had seen this pattern before and she was so excited to hear that one could
be made, so I am now getting  your pattern to make for her, she will  be thrilled. Thank you so much for providing
this for soo many. God bless, Linda

Tracey said...

Love this pattern!! Thank you so much...I can do both knit and crochet but knitting takes so much time and you have to remember what you did (purl/knit) and with a small child it's easy to forget...These also seem to work up easily so this is great!!  thank you!!!!  Also you can use cotton yarn or thread to cut down on the heat since worsted weight yarn doesn't breath very well!!

Rosario said...

It's great that you came up with this pattern. I will try to make it as a prosthetic cover. Will give you news abou it.

Stephanie said...

Hey! Thanks so much for posting this! I'm making a set for a friend of my mom who had to have a double mastectomy. I'm also planning to form a chapter of Crochet for Cancer in my area, and I know this will be a wonderful gift for any other ladies who've had mastectomies.


So, first off... I am SOOOOOO confused about the invdec. You are working left to right????? Are you working left handed? This website: http://www.myhobbyiscrochet.com/2013/08/3-ways-of-decreasing-stitch-single.html has a tutorial for doing an invdec in back loops. (It's titled "The Third Way" on this page.) Is this the way you are describing that we need to do this stitch? If not, can you please post a video on how to do it? I see that you have some videos for some other stitches on your page.


Also, I'm making a size C cup. If I go from row 18 to row 20, skipping 19, like the instructions say, I am supposed to go from having 66 stitches to 54, but this does not work. Using the *sc 8, invdec* (or any dec), I have six stitches left at the end, making a total of 60 stitches in this row. To go from 66 to 54 stitches, the following pattern works for row 20: *sc in next 3 st, invdec, sc in next 4 st, invdec* Just wondering if I'm looking at this right or if my brain is malfunctioning again! :)


Thanks again for the pattern!! :)

Stephanie said...

I see you deleted my comment. Can you at least help with the invdec?

Cris said...

I have not deleted any comments - if it included a URL or image file it may not have posted. The invisible decrease is a decreased used for amigirumi. There is a great image tutorial of how to do it here: http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-single-crochet-invisible-decrease/

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